The top hairstyles spotted on the Spring/Summer 2015 runways at New York Fashion Week.
Expect updos to take a sleek turn this season with angular styles that have an edge. Take a cue from buns at Altuzurra, which were moulded into the shape of a heart at the back of the head and super shiny. Knots at Carolina Herrera were sharp and clean, while loops at Calvin Klein had slick sides and loose ends.
How to: Orlando Pita created the Carolina Herrera sumo knot by applying a generous amount of BioSilk Firm Hold Hairspray to the hair, before sculpting a sleek ponytail 2 inches below the crown. He then ran the CHI G2 Ceramic & Titanium Digital Hairstyling Iron through the lengths of the ponytail. To create the knot, he sprayed BioSilk Firm Hold Hairspray until the ponytail was damp. Next, he used a tail comb and a flat iron to gently fold the tail in half to create an off-center looped bun. He then brought the remaining hair down the center to form a tail, securing with an elastic band. BioSilk Shine On Spray was used to finish the look.
This year natural-looking ringlets took centre stage at shows like Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou. Hair at Jeremy Scott was inspired by wind-tousled beach hair, which had curls, ringlets and natural-looking texture variations throughout each style.
How to: Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman created Jeremy Scott ‘s relaxed styles by rough drying hair, focusing on creating volume at the roots. Next, he sprayed dry hair generously with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz before taking sections of the hair to create random crimps and braids. To create the wavy texture, he made 3-4 thick braids all over the head, sprayed with Wella Professionals Stay Essential Finishing Spray, applied heat with a diffuser, unbraided hair and brushed out with fingers (focusing on the crown) to finish.
You’re going to need more hair thickening products and extensions for Spring 2015. Styles on the runways required super long ponys (spotted on models at J Mendel, Oscar De La Renta and Jason Wu) and thick, wide braids (seen at Suno and Donna Karan).
How to: Kevin Ryan for UNITE created an undone braid for Baja East by applying Expanda Volume to roots, and Unite Beach Day to ends on damp hair before blow drying, focusing on creating volume at the crown. Once dry, he backcombed the roots and gathered all hair into a loose bun at the base of the neck. He then used forceps to pull out sections of the hair to create a reverse braid. Next, he sprinkled Expanda Dust throughout roots to create oily texture at the roots to contrast the rough ends. He finished the look with Unite Tricky Spray, working through with fingers for added matte finish and texture.
We’ve seen enough of the wet look hair at Fashion Week to be sick of it. However, this season’s best styles mixed shiny, sleek roots with tousled ends—kind of like fashion-forward hat hair. Get inspired by looks at Derek Lam, Zac Posen, Alexander Wang, Hervé Léger and DKNY.
How to: Eugene Souleiman, Creative Director, Wella Professionals created DKNY’s sleek-yet-wispy braids and ponies using a quarter sized amount of Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier on roots before blow-drying hair straight. He then sprayed the top of hair with Wella Professionals Stay Essential Finishing Spray to keep it flat. Then he created a zigzag part with a fin tail comb, pulling out some wisps of hair at the hairline before applying Wella Professionals Sculpt Force Gel with a tint brush, sculpting the flyaways into waves with the fingers. He then dried the gelled hair with a diffuser, and finished with Wella Professionals Stay Essential Finishing Spray.
Old School Waves
Not a fashion season goes by where designers don’t pay homage to retro trends. Spring’s next vintage-inspired styles will include voluminous curls reminiscent of Farah Fawcett’s famous look. (See the waves at Diane von Furstenberg, Jerome and Matthew Williamson for inspiration.) Looser, 70s-inspired curls a la Jerry Hall will also be en vogue.
How to: Lead Stylist James Pecis for Moroccanoil created the curls spotted at Jill Stuart by creating a centre part in damp hair, before applying Moroccanoil Root Boost all over hair and Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse at the roots. After blowdrying straight, he wrapped 1” sections around a 1 1/4” curling iron, allowing each wave to cool in a clip while it set. Once cool, and hair was delicately brushed out using a Moroccanoil Boar Bristle Classic Brush. He finished by applying a dime-sized amount of Moroccanoil Curl Defining Cream to hands and using fingers smooth hair ends and flyaways, adding a bit of rough texture around the face.
Fanciful and free hairstyles were abundant on the catwalks at NYFW. Top knots at shows like Marc by Marc Jacobs and Vivienne West were messy and full of fly-aways. A large number of shows featured also featured messy styles, like loose braids at Michael Kors, and disheveled, tousled waves at Anna Sui, Burberry, and many more.
How to: Paul Hanlon created the Phillip Lim textured bun using a volumizing mousse at roots and on mid-lengths before rough drying. He used a soft bristle brush to pull out hair around the hairline. He then used a volumizing dry shampoo on the roots while back combing sections of the lengths, spraying with a finish spray as he went. Next, he pulled hair into a pony at the crown using a hair tie. Then he divided the lengths into two sections to create a knot for this look.
This year’s show mixied every-day looks with some subtle, edgy and low-commitment embellishments. At Badgley Mischka, highlights in dark, colourful shades peeked out under ends for an edgy touch to tousled waves. Hidden, messy micro-braids, created by Schwarzkopf Professional Artists for Vera Wang, gave undone hair a hard rock edge. We have to give honourable mentioned to the pierced brows at Rodarte! (We hope this isn’t going to become a real trend. Ouch!)
Images: Courtesy of Style.com; WireImage for BioSilk/CHI; UNITE; Wella Professionals; Kerastase; and Stephen Churchill Downes for Moroccanoil.