Embrace summer’s heat and humidity and go au naturel— with hair texture, that is! Try these pro tips for getting colour just right for your curly-haired clients.
Problem: Foil Highlights
“If you’re using foils, when you wash and dry the hair, the highlights can get lost in the curls because they will form into clumps, but they never form into the same clump every time,” says Marilyn Rose, curl ambassador for Redken. “Where you place the highlights in your foils won’t be the same place [they show up in] after you style it, so you’re often unable to see the highlights you created.”
Solution: Freehand or Balayage
“A technique we use is finger application of highlights. You can either use a high-lift colour or a lightener. We grab a cluster of individual curls to customize the look for the client, and paint on the high-lift colour or lightener,” says Rose. “Once the hair is shampooed and restyled, you’re able to see your work versus it being hidden within all the other curls when you use the traditional method of foiling.”
Solution: Wella Professionals Color ID
“Wella’s Color ID is a great option for colouring curly hair. It’s like foils in a bottle, and creates an invisible divider allowing you to put colour next to colour in a bolder, more organic way,” says Fay Linksman, studio leader for Wella Professionals. “Whenever you’re working with foils, you’re always working very linear—in straight lines— but curls don’t behave that way. If you’re able to create colour patterns in the hair in a more curved and organic shape, you really have a lot of possibilities.”
Problem: Solid Colour
“Avoid doing a solid colour from roots to ends because curly hair is denser, so if it’s really thick and really curly, it can almost look ‘wig like’ where it’s just solid and there’s no dimension or light reflection within the shape,” says Rose.
Solution: Halo Effect
“The reason we colour curly hair—if it’s not to cover grey—is to add more dimension or shine. Light needs a flat surface to reflect off of to create shine. With curly hair, because it’s not a flat surface, it will naturally not look shiny,” says Rose. “We like to use colour to create dimension in the hair and create an illusion of light within the curls. If you’re going to do a full colour, choose a base hue anywhere from two to three shades darker than the mid-shaft to ends. Just by doing that, you’re going to create more dimension throughout.”
Solution: Wella Professionals Illumina
“The play of light is amazing and it’s super versatile. It’s a permanent colour, however there are a lot of different services you can use it for: Glossing, pastel toning, and more,” says Linksman. “I love creating dimension within the hair and particularly depth at the root to give a beautiful, multi-faceted result.”
Dry and Damaged Hair
“When the hair is in bad condition, there is only so much we can do with colour,” says Rose. Linksman adds, “Damaged hair might not even accept colour. Toners might not take properly or colour might appear ashy.”
Solution: Redken Chromatics
“Redken’s Chromatics has an oil delivery system, so hair feels and looks better after you use it,” says Rose. “Also, it’s great for grey coverage and has high-lift colour to add more dimension throughout while still leaving the hair in beautiful condition.”
Solution: Wella Professionals Color Fresh
“It’s a semi-permanent colour that can be done in-salon or taken home to maintain and prolong the service,” says Linksman. “It’s so gentle and moisturizing, and it’s amazing on curly hair. You apply it on shampooed, towel-dried hair and when you work it through the hair, you almost create a froth. It emulsifies beautifully throughout and it’s fast, easy to use and lasts around eight to 10 washes.”
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