It goes without saying that while hair trends come and go, the looks often return in modernized ways that reflect new styles while emphasizing elements from the past. With the resurgence of the shag and more layered looks, we’re now starting to see choppier styles for shorter lengths as well.
Throughout the course of the past couple of years, more people were forced to grow out their hair, which resulted in the birth of mid-length styles, such as the lob (long bob) and bixie (bob-pixie), for shorter-haired clients.
However, it seems that more guests are now open to the chop. “I don’t believe the pandemic had an influence on this trend in particular,” says Shanti Soulières, a hairstylist and colourist at Kapillär Studio in Saint-Mathieu-de- Belœil, Que., and a portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “On the contrary, I believe that we’re enjoying new looks, new styles and a fresh outlook on things.”
Blast from the Past
As we’ve been seeing a wide range of styles that have been heavily influenced by previous eras, these styles are most reminiscent of the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s.
“Modern techniques have helped transition these hairstyles to make them a lot more tailored, yet there’s still a lot of nostalgia factoring into these types of looks,” says Jason Kwan, a Sassoon- trained, Toronto-based hairstylist. “Depending on the finishing, it typically works with all face shapes.”
Along with being inspired by the past, Soulières believes these cuts have been heavily influenced by high-end fashion designers, resulting in more street-style trends.
“It’s important to push your limits as a hairstylist. Change is good and it’s beautiful, so always look for new looks and styles to discuss with your clients.” — Shanti Soulières, A Hairstylist and Colourist at Kapillär Studio in Saint-Mathieu-De-Belœil, Que.
Making the Cut
Before breaking out your haircutting tools, it’s important to have a thorough consultation to ensure you and your client are on the same page about both the length and the cut.
“The consultation is everything,and it’s paramount to the client feeling comfortable,” says Soulières. “Consultations are the number one issue for small to large changes as we build consumer awareness, create the relationship and build trust.”
As for techniques, while they will range based on the client’s face shape and overall desired look, Kwan says he prefers to create these haircuts with “a little rounder shape and something that frames the face really well.”
“It’s a little bit more effortless around the face versus something that’s more chic, which is typically easier to grow out,” he says, adding that he prefers to stick with his scissors instead of texturizing shears. “If their hair is much thicker, then I can really see how much weight I’m taking out. If somebody has finer hair or works in a more conventional setting, then I’ll choose something that’s less layered and not overdo it by taking out too much length or volume.”
“Typically, I’ll do the wet cut with a little bit more of the shape in mind of how I want the hair to fall,” adds Kwan. “Then, when I’m cutting the hair dry, it’s more about just tailoring it to suit them a little bit more.”
FOR THOSE LOOKING TO BE MORE PLAYFUL WITH THEIR HAIRCUT, CONSIDER ADDING MORE LAYERS AROUND THE FACE OR CROWN AREA AND USING A FEATHER RAZOR TO ADD MORE TEXTURE.
The bixie and the lob are a couple of the mid-length styles that have been making their mark, thanks to their low- maintenance appeal.
“Lobs are so easy to take care of and manage,” says Kwan. “They are so versatile, work for all face shapes and are just a great way to get a lot of volume and movement.”
While it depends on the hair’s density and texture, Soulières says it’s like creating a sculpture. “I start with my base: triangular square or round. From here, in this section, we create four equal triangles, cutting each corner long to short and short to long. For the next level, I disconnect the bottom from the top, making a true star shape in the upper section of the head. I create my guideline in the centre of my star, then cut short to long and pin cutting wheel in motion.”
TEXT: LUCY MAZZUCCO, PHOTOS: HAIR: DAN SPILLER, MARC ANTONI, U.K. MAKEUP: KATIE MOORE, WARDROBE STYLING: ELLEN SPILLER, PHOTOS: JAMIE BLANSHARD, INSTAGRAM
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