Lightening services have never been as popular as they are now.
For summer, a new crop of super-pale platinum shades are taking the fashion world by storm, led, in part, by Daenerys Targaryen, the almost-white haired Mother of Dragons in Game of Thrones. As it turns out, in salons, blondes represent more than 50 percent of all colour services. Here’s what you need to know to meet the high demand for the most delicate shades on the colour wheel.
Regardless of the clients’ original colour, you will have to work with an on-scalp lightener to bring the hair to the desired level, aiming for a very cool shade. Fortunately over the past few years, a new generation of professional lightening formulas now helps you create that coveted platinum more quickly, with higher lift and much less stress on the overall quality of the hair and scalp.
“Even if your client is already blonde, use a lightener before applying any toner, as the blonde you are aiming for is very cool,” says Emilie Weissmann, a Goldwell technical advisor who conducts training seminars across Quebec for the brand. “I really like Goldwell’s Silk Lift which is enriched with silk proteins and gentle enough for fine hair. It’s the perfect on- and off-scalp lightener, even for those cleints with sensitive hair.”
Healthy is sexier
Ideally, “it’s best to work with healthy hair for these extreme transformations, as it will cause much less damage to the integrity of the hair,” suggests Louis Charland, regional master trainer for Davines and head of education at Aura Distribution. “However, if your clients’ hair has been chemically treated, you can still lighten it up even to a level 10. Start by applying the lightener and stop the process after 15 to 20 minutes by completely rinsing the formula off the hair. At this stage, what’s lifting the colour is the oxidation process, before the chemicals have a chance to damage the hair.” According to Charland, you can repeat the same process up to four times in a row. “Between each lightener application, add a mask to nourish and moisturize the hair. Also, be mindful that this is a premium service, both in terms of time and cost to the client.”
The right toner
With toner, the pigment that’s left on the hair will guide your choice of shades, “but you’ll likely choose a cool one, with a touch of ash to be in tune with this year’s trend,” says Charland. “My favourite is Davines Mask Colour Conditioning System. Once it’s in the hair shaft, it’s retained because of the large colour molecule, so the desired hue stays intact,” says Charland.
“The white blonde hair colour looks best when it’s customized to your client,” advises Weissmann. “You also need to choose a pink- or violet-hued toner; which helps ensure the hair is evenly lightened as these shades are difficult to obtain.” To achieve optimal colour longevity, your client should use an at-home product, such as Goldwell Colorance Soft Color Foam.
When it comes down to it, remember these three fail-safe tips for white-hot hair: The perfect lightening process, the right toner and a rigorous at-home routine.
These two high-lift lighteners are good choices to achieve white blonde.
Wella Professionals Blondor
Multi-Blonde, a powder tri-lightening technology with effective anti-yellow molecules for great blonde results with up to seven levels of lift. This lightener is highly flexible through multi-purpose applications and different mixing ratios.
Infinie Platin from L’Oréal Professionnel
A high-powered lightening powder that offers up to eight levels of lift, with accelerated lightening action and high adherence for precise applications.
Photo credits: Hair: Daniella Barca; Colour; Adam Isles, Rokk Ebony Salon, Australlia; Makeup: Natalie Barrington, Styling: Alanna Barca; Photo: Michaela Barca