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Every client thinks his or her hair has some kind of damage or weakness (even if they aren’t saying anything about it while they’re in your chair).

As hairdressers, it’s your job to help their hair look and feel its best with your styling skills and product recommendations.

We asked Elan McDowell, Artistic Director for Unwash™, to give us a cheat sheet for treating every hair type’s issues.

Colour-treated Hair

Known Issues: Coloured hair can fade quickly due to oxidization. It often ends up looking dull and dry.

Big Styling No-no’s: Washing hair too much can flush colour down the drain faster due to the surfactants and harsh detergents found in traditional shampoo. If clients often use curling and flat irons to style their hair, this can also lead to oxidization and colour fading.

Best Bets: Suggest colour clients eliminate traditional shampooing (which strips the hair of natural oils and moisture, contributing to faster colour fading), by using Unwash Bio-Cleansing Conditioner. With its rinse-off emulsifiers, this conditioning wash gently cleanses, protects and restores lost hydration so that colour stays vibrant and lasts longer. Heat tools should be used on a lower temperature setting.

Fragile Hair

Known Issues: If not cut well, this very thin hair hangs limp and lacks body.

Big Styling No-no’s: If not treated with caution, this hair type can break easily, especially with the use of extensions, and curling and flat irons. Caution should be used when highlighting this hair.

Best Bets: Use a high lift permanent colour to get the correct level of lift without damaging the hair. Make sure clients use the best heat protecting and styling products for their hair type (think lightweight volumizers). If clients use a lot of styling products, recommend the periodic use of Unwash Anti-Residue Rinse to gently remove build up. Conditioning treatments, like Unwash Hydrating Masque, should be used afterwards on mid-lengths and ends (so as not to weigh down hair) to replenish lost moisture, as fragile hair can easily become dried out. Heat tools should be used on a lower temperature setting.

Mature Hair

Known Issues: Hair can become thinner (especially around the temple area) and dryer with age, lacking the body it once had. Grey hair can sometimes have a different texture from the rest of the hair.

Big Styling No-no’s: This hair can be resistant to colouring. Overuse of heat tools can lead to further damage or texture changes.

Best Bets: Colouring this hair can increase the body because the cuticle becomes slightly raised when treated. Stylists must ensure full coverage by adding a neutral colour in their desired shade to the formula. Use Unwash Bio-Cleansing Conditioner—instead of traditional shampoo, which can damage the cuticle further—to retain the hair’s natural oils and moisture levels, and help colour last longer. Advise clients to use Unwash Hydrating Masque (which contains argan oil, coconut oil and seabuckthorn) one to two times a week to help mature hair feel softer and shinier. Heat styling tools should be avoided.

Coarse Hair

Known Issues: This hair type can be frizzy and hard to control. It often lacks moisture and is very dry.

Big Styling No-no’s: Overuse of heated tools can damage this hair further.

Best Bets: This hair type needs frequent hydration, so using Unwash Hydrating Masque once a week will leave hair feeling smoothand full of body. Recommend replacing regular shampooing with Bio-Cleansing Conditioner to leave the cuticle in tact and keep the hair hydrated (and therefore less frizzy!). Those with oily hair should periodically use Unwash Anti-Residue Rinse, a pH-balanced, mild, bio-based cleanser, which contains no sulfates or parabens, and gently lifts away dirt without stripping the hair’s natural oils, leaving it more healthy and manageable. A good haircut can cut down on the need for heat styling.

Keratin-treated Hair

Known Issues: This hair type has been pre-treated to smooth the cuticle of the hair, which makes it finer and softer, but can comprise its integrity if not executed exactly to the manufacturer’s specifications. The hair will feel different, as the cuticle layer has been treated.

Big Styling No-no’s: This hair should not be heat styled as it can be extremely damaging.

Best Bets: Shampoos can reduce the effects of the treatment faster; so suggest using Unwash Bio-Cleansing Conditioner, which uses naturally-derived ingredients that removes surface build-up without opening the cuticle and stripping the natural oils from hair, making it safe for all types of treated hair. Recommend applying Unwash Hydrating Masque prior to getting hair wet to protect it. After swimming, use Unwash Anti-Residue Rinse, and follow up with more Hydrating Masque to help further protect the hair’s integrity. Heat tools should be avoided and blow dryers used on the lowest setting.

Relaxed Hair

Known Issues: Chemically straightened hair appears smooth and straight, but needs to be treated like fragile hair, as it’s prone to breakage.

Big Styling No-no’s: The hair’s moisture levels are usually compromised, and caution needs to be used when colouring this hair type.

Best Bets: Replenishing moisture should be the main priority for this hair type. To maintain healthy hydration levels, try using Unwash Hydrating Masque weekly to restore shine. To prevent further cuticle damage (which can be caused by the lather in regular shampoos), recommend clients use Bio-Cleansing Conditioner to cleanse their hair and protect its integrity, colour and manageability. Heat styling tools should be avoided.

This post was sponsored by Unwash. To learn more about the co-washing movement, visit www.unwash.com.