All throughout 2022 we’ve seen many variations of the shag haircut, and just when you might have thought you’ve seen them all, we have another one that you may want to try out on your clients. The square layered shag is reminiscent of rock and roll musicians and is a style that functions on its own with minimal effort. Sam Villa Ambassador Brecka Bradshaw gave us a step-by-step guide on how you can achieve this look on your clients that are looking for an edgy and effortless cut.
The Nape
- Using a 7-inch dry cutting shear, cut vertically while elevating the hair 90 degrees horizontally. Leave length towards the perimeter.
- Use traveling sections and little to no over direction to allow this area to collapse with no buildup of weight.
Pro-Tip: Establish the length on dry hair in the nape area first.
The Sides and Back
- Detach and leave at least an inch or two longer than the shortest pieces in the nape which will allow for length and movement while maintaining balance. This will remove bulk in the hair that can cause a shape to look contrived and wig-like.
- Elevate 45 degrees above the horizontal line of 90 degrees. Compress horizontally and move around the head with no change in finger angle or over direction.
- After establishing the shape, texturize sections in the same direction by using a blending shear such as the Sam Villa Signature Series 6.5” Reversible Blending Shear.
The Top and Crown
- Use a razor to cut and aim for a five-to-seven-layer shape between the cheek bones and lips.
- Take horizontal sections and elevate to the vertical 90 degrees. Add moisture with a continuous mist spray bottle and leave-in conditioner to provide slip for the razor to glide.
- To create the most natural movement at the top, alternate where the starting point is on either the left or the right and keep in mind that the razor will naturally cut a little shorter at the entry point.
The Finish
- Cut a fringe layer using traditional sectioning from each recession area to the forward slope of the head. This section should be elevated to 45 degrees above the horizontal 90 degrees and cut while over-directing to the natural part, leaving length toward the bottom of the shape.
- Detail the shape with channel cutting or back-cutting by using a slide cutting shear.
The Styling
- Fine hair will benefit from styling with a blow dryer, paddle brush, and small amount of product to add volume while wrap drying hair back and forth to break up any growth patterns.
- Once dry, style intuitively using your hands and a dry texture spray for an effortlessly cool vibe.
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