Whether your client is looking to rock the latest fashion look or cover his grey naturally, when it comes to men’s colour it’s very easy for much to go wrong. But mistakes are easy to avoid, if you’re going through your consultation the right way and taking time to ensure he’s comfortable the process. For more on the ins and outs of the men’s colour service, we asked Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks Artist and NAHA-winning men’s hairstylist Paul Pereira for his tips on creating the perfect men’s colour story.
These days most of us are short on time, so it’s important to use a product that’s as time efficient as it is reliable when doing men’s colour. For Periera, Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA Color 10 is his go-to pick because the range allows for cooler tones, which generally allow you to achieve the more natural look that most men want.
Avoid the Brass
One of the biggest challenges in men’s colour services is avoiding brassy undertones. Periera suggests using a formula that incorporates an ash shade with green undertone, which reduces the harsh red undertones often associated with a brassy colour.
For natural grey coverage Pereira gradually blends colour with gradually gives the appearance of less gray hair. When it comes to men who are predominately grey, beginning with about 30 percent coverage of their hair and working up to about 70 to 80 percent with each appointment over the course of a year, will yield the most natural results. And for grey hair particularly, pre-softening hair will open up the cuticle, which also allows fro better coverage. In addition, Pereira often suggests men who are colouring their grey, keep their haircut longer so that the grey won’t show as quickly and ideally work towards a three to six week maintenance program.
Generally speaking men’s retail sells itself, provided the products do the job, you’re male clients are happy to ante up. For colour, the right homecare products will also help with colour retention. Periera recommends a toning shampoo such as, BC Colour Freeze Silver Shampoo for regular at home maintenance, along with keeping your guys’ hair longer. “Generally for maintenance, I make them grow their hair longer for about 4-6 weeks,” explains Periera, unless you’re about to attend a special event, like say, strolling down the aisle.
And for guys who are considering adding more fashion forward colours, as opposed to natural shades, Pereira is quick to assess their lifestyle. “A client who is into more street wear looks and is creating his own style, may be able to wear purple and grey.” And beyond fashion shades, he says “there’s definitely an early 90s influence in men’s style, so you’re seeing more texture and it may begin to happen in terms of adding dimension with colour.”