What’s the most popular hair colour trend for fall? Reds, reds, reds.
Whether your clients are searching for a whole new look or a new way to freshen up their hair colour for fall, reds are experiencing a major resurgence. While this hue has typically been popular for those with lighter skin tones, the new palette of reds is making its way into an even broader range. Here’s the breakdown on what your clients may be requesting (if they aren’t already) and how you can get them in the red.
Now trending: The hottest reds for fall
According to Rossa Jurenas, North American creative director for Schwarzkopf Professional, the biggest difference in red hues for this season is in depth. “We’re seeing more intensity yet a lived-in look that has a smoky, almost dusty feel,” says Jurenas, adding that this modern twist will continue into spring but with brighter undertones that include metallic shades.
How to choose the right red for your client
As with any hair colour, when it comes to selecting the right red for your clients, Dorothy Tsang, colour director at Blushes salon in Ottawa, suggests reds with more vibrant copper undertones for fair complexions, while red shades with darker, cooler undertones are best for darker complexions. “For naturally dark hair, using a burgundy or eggplant hue will give someone with naturally darker hair a more natural look,” says Tsang.
Jurenas says that not only skin tone but also eye colour play a major part in a colourist’s decision. “Eye colour is another way to select the best colour, but you need to look at the tones beyond blue, green and brown,” explains Jurenas. “Ginger and copper reds work best for anyone with golden tones in their eyes, while berry reds are better for anyone with silver in their eyes.”
How to get your red-haired clients in on the trend
Changing your client’s colour to their best red, on naturally red-haired clients is a different mix. “If someone has a ginger red hair colour, you want to create more dimension,” says Jurenas. “You may use berry reds to achieve a shade that suits them.”
One way to make reds really stand out is by creating intensity with copper hues, suggests Tsang. “Mixing copper and bronze, as well as burgundy with eggplant, will give you these more intense shades.”
Colour placement to ease clients into a bold colour change
In this era of balayage and babylights, colour placement is key. “Colourists are definitely into more colour panelling with red and using bigger sections of hair for clients who want to create a statement,” explains Jurenas. Using tone- on-tone placement gives depth and creates movement in the hair and ultimately offers a bold look.Tsang has found clients will often shy away from bolder colours like red tones, but contouring around the face to really highlight a client’s best features is a great way to help clients ease into pulling off such a bold colour.
At-home care tips and toners
According to both Tsang and Jurenas, fading is the number one complaint among clients. “Blondes look more blonde as they fade, but with reds, the hair can appear very dried out,” says Jurenas. Every client should have a colour-safe shampoo and conditioner at home because the lower pH in the colour-safe product will preserve the colour. Rinsing with cool water seals the cuticle, which also locks in hair colour. In addition, Jurenas recommends her clients return to the salon once a month for a toner that can also help retain the colour, especially for clients who are transitioning from blonde to red.
HOT TIP: While heat appliances are amazing styling tools, flat and curling irons can wreak havoc on clients’ hair when used daily. “I always recommend a heat protectant product. Without one, you can be lifting the colour as much as two shades in one use,” says Jurenas.
Transition tips for grey-haired clients, blondes and brunettes
For grey-haired clients, advances in colour technology allow you to customize the shade of red and still achieve vibrant reds along with grey coverage. When it comes to transitioning clients from blonde to red, Jurenas says that a double appointment is necessary to achieve and refresh the colour. “With blonde hair, the porosity of the hair is higher than with brunettes, which means that you need to fill the hair so that it will hold and retain the red hue when you add it,” she says. Jurenas adds that creating a multi-dimensional effect may take an additional appointment. Brunette clients will be able to achieve a vibrant red hue more easily because the hair isn’t as porous, which helps retain rich reds.
Pssst! Did you see that our current “So You Think You Can Style” theme is “Reds”? Put these tips to action, snap a pic of your gorgeous red-haired client and show us your creativity. Enter here!
Hair & Colour: Jake Thompson Hair
Makeup: Jillyn Leone Nelsen
Stylist: Rachael Domingo
Photo: Jake Thompson