It’s official: Bobs are back! As seen at Fashion Week and on awards season’s red carpets, here’s how to make this go-to style easy for any client to rock this season.
With warmer weather often comes the urge for clients to chop off wintery locks and spring into summer with a new ’do. From blunt bobs to “the cool girl” cut, here’s how to get there with no regrets!
The Cool Girl Bob
From Dua Lipa to Hailey Baldwin, we’ve seen this more undone take on the bob gaining steam on social and love that it’s ideal for clients who prefer a more tousled, air-dried look.
Cut: “Reverse layers. Normally layers start from the top and go on the outside. But now we cut full length and start from the bottom to lift the sections up to have more even layers that are softer.” — Daniel Benoit, creative director, Salon Pure, Montreal
Cut: “Section off the hair from ear to ear and cut a concave layering technique above the occipital bone. What happens is, the hair through the bottom stays long, and the hair that would be in the middle of a ponytail—if they wanted to wear it back—would be short. Using a layering technique instead of a graduation technique helps deflate the shape instead of building volume in it.” — Antonio Quintieri, top stylist for Wella Professionals.
Style: “Work with their natural texture and keep movement in the hair. If the client wants it straight, you have to be able to make it straight, but it’s really nice with waves because it’s softer.” — Daniel Benoit
Style: “A lot of people are looking for something that will look good on them, but not only blow-dried one way. Sometimes clients just want to wash their hair, and a lot of curl products are coming out to make hair look naturally worn.” — Antonio Quintieri
This sleek and sharp look is a bonafide classic. Take it to the next level with layering techniques and by educating clients with blow-drying and finishing how-tos.
Cut: “Work with the natural fall of the hair without applying any pressure. Cut in straight and small sections— this is the way to create graphic lines in the hair.” — Daniel Benoit
Cut: “Create a more modern feel by leaving it a little longer in the front. Layering is huge for infusing more movement; nobody wants a haircut that looks like a helmet.” — Antonio Quintieri
Style: “From the round of the head to the face, we dry [the layers underneath] really flat. We don’t use a round brush to make it rounder. I use a flat brush like a Denman. You can add volume to the top section with a round brush, but you want to make sure the roots are flat.” — Daniel Benoit
Style: “After you’ve blow- dried the hair, start with less tension on the iron from the mid-shaft. As I work my way through to the ends, I apply a little more pressure with a very soft bevel in the ends so the haircut sits absolutely perfect.” — Antonio Quintieri
A Cut Above
Tips for helping clients transition into their shorter ’do.
Ready and Steady
Before you start cutting, make sure your client is truly ready to make the commitment. Discuss length and how it will work with their face shape and lifestyle.
Colour It In
Just because there’s less hair to work with doesn’t mean you can’t provide clients with a customized colour service that goes beyond root retouching. Create dimension between the root colour and mid- lengths and ends to give hair more depth and to create a more modern look.
As with colour, shorter cuts require clients to make regular maintenance appointments. For example, with a bob they’ll want to come in every six to eight weeks to have it reshaped.
Bang for Your Buck
A fringe can do wonders for both your client’s look and your business. Opt for a layered fringe rather than a straight across option, so clients won’t attempt to go the DIY route.
If a client can’t recreate their look at home, it doesn’t matter how great the cut looks in your salon. Educate them about blow-drying and styling techniques as you’re working with their hair, and remind them that professional products are a key part of creating their look. Show clients what you’re using as you work and you increase the chances of making a sale with take-home care!