After the frenzy for luscious curls and braided bonanza that were all the rage last fall and winter, hairstyles are stepping back to a less ornate approach, with elements of controlled rebellion for spring and summer.
Short and Chic
Photo: Courtesy of Oligo Professionel
Short hair is in the air, and Robin Wright’s House of Cards character, Claire Underwood, is the “it” girl of the day. Yes, everyone is head over heels in love with this new interpretation of short, which has some sensuality to it but is still very chic and classy. It’s the perfectly polished cut for the professional. “This is a slightly geometric haircut that still has some roundness to it at the nape of the neck. And what’s fun about it is that you can interpret it as super-classy and sophisticated or very rocker chick with a slight Mohawk and light pastels under the top layer of hair if you want to go for a more extreme look for a bolder client,” comments Karine Jacques, artistic director for Oligo Professionnel.
Another style icon who came back with a bang on the trending radar earlier this year was Pamela Anderson. Gone are the ho-hum sun-kissed locks and hello pixie-chic platinum!
Photo: Jenny Hands
“Celebrities are still the top contenders for giving new direction to trends, so they continue to be relevant”, confirms Alex Chabot, artistic director for Matrix Design Team Canada. “For spring/summer 2014, at Matrix we are having a lot of fun with pastel effects: peach, coral, candy pink. The hip factor of the cut is accentuated with these splashes of colour. Our new lacquers are great for this, particularly for clients who want a regular change of colour since the pigment does not penetrate the hair’s cortex.” According to Chabot, pastels are here to stay and will become mainstream hues, “particularly those shades that are dusty or have a very slight trace of pink.” Case in point, we are seeing a lot of pinkish blondes at many of the big colour brands.
At the same time, for some stylists like Olivier Miotto who won the 2014 Contessa Session Hairstylist of the Year, pastels are at the tail end of the trend spectrum. “I think that by next fall that will be it for these new nuances.” Time will tell, but in the meantime, it can be fun to experiment with colour that’s a bit out of the box. No pun intended here!
Some Like it Raw
Photo: Courtesy of Wella Professionals
“Right now I’m doing a lot of styles that have a raw quality. I’m even cutting the hair dry to create a bit of a jagged effect,” says Miotto, musing about the new cuts he is creating in his Old Montreal boutique salon. “I’m really into that choppy effect, with the longer fringes that we saw at the latest Chanel fashion show.” That said, his imperfections have a studied precision. He cuts clients’ hair dry, has it washed and then meticulously finishes the style. The result: dishevelled and very natural, completely in line with the zeitgeist that is also echoed in Urban Native, the latest Spring/Summer 2014 TrendVision collection from Wella Professionals, “which is inspired by the idea of worn-in comfort with grown-out contours.”
When it comes to fave finishing products to create these lived-in looks include dry shampoos, texture powders and salt sprays are all sure bets. “Anything that will add a ton of density, with a bit of a dusty finish and matte texture,” explains Miotto.
The Bob with Bod
Photo: Christophe Gaillet for L’Oreal Professionnel
Having returned from a Sassoon education session in London, Daniel Benoit, a L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and regular at top-tier hair competitions, says, “They have just killed everything that’s geometric.” According to Benoit, “Extreme angles are gone, and they are now focusing on bringing softness to the styles.” It’s a total departure from what made Sassoon famous in the ’60s and was a mainstay of the house.
When it comes to styles this summer, Benoit says there will be a lot more softness and texture. “It’s an international trend that’s coming on strong.” Hair is thinner, and fringes are heavier but also softer. It’s all about creating a new idea of balance. “Everything that’s under the top layer of hair is textured and natural. I don’t put any tension on the hair anymore when I’m cutting it.” When the layers of hair fall on top of each other, there’s a disconnect but the look retains a natural appeal.
“The shorter bob will give way to longer hair, says Miotto, adding that “It’s about elongating that look.” At the Oscars this year, many beauty bloggers created a big buzz on social media by declaring Academy Award winner Jared Leto’s surfer-dude ombré locks the best hair of the night —a sentiment Miotto shares when he shares his thoughts on the actor and singer-songwriter’s signature style.
Spring/Summer Hairstyling Cheat Sheet
Here’s the skinny on Spring/Summer 2014 styles.
1. Finishes are natural
2. It’s all about texture
3. Chunky fringes are in
4. Pastels are “it” shades!
5. Ombré colour for guys is cool
6. Use a combination of shears and blades to create raw edges