With ’90s and Y2K trends continually in demand— and not just when it comes to haircuts—more and more people are looking for high-contrast colours that are reminiscent of vintage pop culture.
“This kind of trend can be interpreted in different ways,” says Francis Bouchard, a Montreal-based hairstylist, ambassador and member of Matrix’s artistic team. “While it can be created with more natural tones for consumer appeal, we’re seeing it bolder now; very strong in the front, but it can also be worked in on the sides or in the middle. We have two different ways we’re seeing this trend right now—the ’90s trend with Geri Halliwell-type looks, or more face-framing, natural and sexy versions like you might see on a Victoria’s Secret model.”
Pro tip
For higher- maintenance colour, consider incorporating the cost of take-home products into the quote of the service to ensure your clients are going home with the appropriate haircare regimen.
Perfect Pairings
Depending on how much of a statement your client wants to make with their colour, the pairing of shades makes all the difference. When choosing hues to combine, some may prefer to stay within their comfort zone and only use complimentary colours. However, depending on your client’s preference and lifestyle, anything goes! “With brunette and blonde shades, I always try to stay within the same tonal family so it looks cohesive,” says Sunni Hurley, an artistic educator for Pravana and owner of SLEY & Co. in Woodstock, Ont. “But for fashion colours, people are going for more contrast and opposite shades on the colour wheel.”
“If you want a more natural effect, look at the colouration of your client’s skin tone,” adds Bouchard. “Also, consider the season. For example, if your client will be more tanned in the summer, warm colours are more flattering for most people. It’s also important to consider that ashy tones don’t fade as well as warmer tones.”
Whether it’s natural, fashion or even pastel colours, another factor to consider is the fade-out. “Make sure to pre-tone in the direction of the tonal family you’re going in,” says Hurley. “For example, if you’re toning a yellow before toning a blue, you’ll want to make sure that when it fades, it doesn’t turn green since it’s going to pick up what’s left underneath. If your client wants a cooler result, you’ll want to tone to a cool base first. However, if they want something warmer, there’s no need to tone out warmth since we can work with the unwanted pigment in our formulation.”
While some clients may be garnering bold inspiration from celebrities and social media, it’s important to break down the look and the factors that will be required to achieve it. These include everything from hair health, time and cost to in-salon maintenance and take-home care.
Pro tip
To help speed up your application time, try using balayage boards to easily alternate between a few colours without having to wash your hands in the process
In the Zone
When determining the placement of the shades, it all comes down to zones. “The zone is where you want to put the lightness,” says Bouchard. “It can be any shape; a triangle, circle, etc., and will depend on the hair’s length, texture and type of cut, and the type of impact they’re looking for.”
“For example, we see a lot of rectangles around the face with money pieces. If they’re looking for something more dramatic, you can create a triangle and alternate colours for each section. If you just choose a big round spot of one colour, it’s not going to have the same impact,” he says. “A circle would be a full zone of colour while a triangle gives you a negative zone at the top with the bigger section underneath.”
“I like working with pie sections and triangular sections, rather than square or rectangular sections because when you move the hair around, it looks more seamless,” says Hurley. “If you want it to peek out a bit, go with a diagonal back section and forward section, so instead of a solid line, you almost get a pizza shape. I like that shape when doing any kinds of peek-a-boos or colour-blocking on the interior; it creates a seamless look without a stark line.”
Another popular area is in a fringe. “Creating a triangle is the best because you’ll still have the transition between the natural colour and colour block,” says Bouchard. “They’ll merge so that when the fringe moves, you’ll see the pop of colour.”
While money pieces (or face-framing) are also a form of colour-blocking, Hurley says, in general, the trend can seem more intimidating when compared to other techniques like melting, blending or panelling, especially for new hairstylists. “They’re so used to creating easy and soft grow-out colour, especially during the pandemic,” she says. “I think it can be intimidating whenever they need to go right up to the scalp with their lightening. They just need to remind the client that it’s a very high- maintenance process since it’s going to create a very stark line when it grows out. The look is quite bold, so it will push their boundaries as a stylist, which is great because you don’t grow if you stay in your comfort zone.”
“Colour blocking actually takes less time for the application since it’s a zone,” adds Bouchard. “You choose a zone where you want to have a punch
of light or colour. It’s great for a client who wants something new but doesn’t know exactly what.”
When determining the placement of colours, it’s important to consider your timing, particularly for shades that may require different levels of lift. “In this case, I would use a lower-level developer and do an open-air process,” says Hurley. “A 10-volume and a 20- to 30-volume off the scalp to allow the speed to pick up on the one side that needs to be a little lighter and brighter. It allows everything to be finished with the right timing so you’re not stuck waiting for one side to develop or having to shampoo on only one side.”
“These types of trends are going to be here for the summer and gone by the winter, so we have to enjoy them now. It’s go bold or go home!”
— Francis Bouchard, Montreal-Based Hairstylist, Ambassador and Member of Matrix’s Artistic Team
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