Hair/Coiffure: Illham Mestour, Kasper Kasper Heemskerk, Omar El Gharbawy
Makeup/Maquillage: Naima Bremer
Wardrobe Styling/Styliste Mode: Alejandro Martinez
Photos: Tim Verhallen
Judith’s Cut:
Step 1: Start by creating a guideline following the hairline all around the head. The guideline should not be more than 1⁄2 inch.
Step 2: Continue the haircut at the fringe area. Divide the fringe into two equal parts. The goal is to create a heart shape. Over-direct everything to the highest eyebrow point and cut the fringe area from short to long. The fringe will be your guideline for the complete haircut.
Step 3: Continue to the sideburns using a feather knife. The combination of using shears and a knife will help with creating solid and soft lines. Over-direct the sides first to the front and create a concave. Second over- direct the hair to the back and again create a concave.
Step 4: Connect the back sides using the shortest length of the sideburns as your guideline and cut from short to long. The middle of the nape area should be longer and will be refined later.
TIP: when the weight at the sideburns is building up, use your shave knife vertically in wet hair to remove some weight but not the length.
Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the other side.
Step 6: Section a triangle just above the fringe area. Divide the section into two equal parts, over-direct each section the first, and connect to the fringe area.
Step 7: Section a middle guide in the triangle’s fringe area, lift the hair 90 degrees and remove the weight by cutting the hair from short to long toward the front hairline. Over- direct each following section the middle and follow the guideline.
Step 8: For the top part, we use shears again. Lift the hair 90 degrees and pointcut the remaining corner from the hair and create a round shape. The total look should be light and airy. Connect the sides by lifting the hair 90 degrees and point cut to remove weight.
Step 9: Refine and soften the shape, go through each haircut section using deep and shallow point-cutting techniques, remove any excess weight, and give the haircut extra dimension.
Colour Formula for Judith
Couleurs Couture Colour formulas
Formula 1 Foils: Premium Powder Lightener 20 vol
Formula 2 Base Colour : 1/4 4 1/4 3.12 1⁄2 6.12 +6.5 vol
Formula 3 Foils: 1/3 0.0 1/3 0.21 1/3 0.3 +6.5 vol
Judith’s Colour
Step 1: Start the colour process in the fringe area. The haircut is the guide for the colour placement. Apply four slightly diagonal foils with the colour formula 1 and lift to the desired RPC 10.
Step 2: Continue at the sideburns and apply two vertical, slightly diagonal foils with colour formula 1 on each side.
Step 3: Apply two more diagonal foils on each side of the nape area where the hair is longer and lift everything to an RPC 10.
Step 4: When the desired lift RPC 10 is achieved, rinse and shampoo with the Couleurs Couture Shampoo, followed by the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment. The PH level of the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will close the cuticles, and the active ingredient, Succinic Acid, will repair the broken bonds. The 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will help with creating colour longevity of the following toner service.
Step 5: Continue with Colour formula 2 in the finger area by colouring four slices of foils back to back on the previously lifted hair on each side of the fringe area.
Step 6: Follow the application process from step 5 on the sideburns and the nape area by applying colour formula 2 back to back until there is no more blonde hair to be coloured.
Step 7: Apply colour formula 3 on the remaining hair and in between the foils to create a shadow root to create a seamless transition of the two different colours
Ines’ Cut
Prep: Wash the hair with the Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner. Add the Overnight Repair Serum to the conditioner to intensify the nourishment and conditioning. Diffuse dry the hair on low heat and speed, using the signature foundation. Cut the hair dry and in the natural curl pattern of the client. The dry-cutting technique allows the hair to be sculpted around the wearer’s face shape and features resulting in a more natural flow of the hair.
Step 1: Section the hair into a diamond shape pattern along the head’s perimeter. Starting in the nape area, working towards the crown.
Step 2: Start the haircut in area 1, the highest point. The curl pattern will guide the first section and will be used as your guideline.
Step 3: Work around the head by subdividing each section into smaller diamond-shaped sections and create a geodesic dome pattern. Follow the natural curl pattern for each diamond shape section. The individual subsections can differ in size and width due to the hair’s natural curl pattern.
Step 4: Continue working around the head until the nape area by following the geodesic dome diamond pattern and cutting each curl individually. The curls should flow naturally around the head. Avoid any unnecessary tension or manipulation of the curls.
Step 5: When all sections are cut to the desired length, bend the head forward and loosen the curls. This will free any irregularities from the hair. Cut any unwanted irregularities to the desired shape and length.
Step 6: Wash and condition the hair before cross-checking the haircut. It is important not to remove the shape of the haircut during the cross-check.
Step 7: Refine and soften the shape, go through each haircut section using deep and shallow point-cutting techniques, remove any excess weight, and give the haircut extra dimension. As desired, an additional fringe can be added to the haircut using the same refinement techniques to create a soft and organic fringe.
Colour Formula For Ines
Couleurs Couture Colour formulas
Formula 1 Foils: Moisturizing Cream Lightener 20 vol
Formula 2 Base Colour:1/4 5.31 1/4 4 1⁄2 0.0 +6.5 vol
Formula 3 Foils: 1/3 8.31 1/3 8.12 1/3 6.35 +6.5 vol
Formula 4 Foils: 1/3 10.31 1/3 0.21 1/3 0.0 + 3cm RED +6.5 vol
Ines’ Colour
Ines hair was brittle and sensitive, therefore, we prepared the hair with an intensive Spa Treatment prior to the colour service:
Step 1: Shampoo the hair with Couleurs Couture shampoo
Step 2: Apply Couleurs Couture Mask with 7 drops of Overnight Repair Serum to deeply nourish the hair. Process for 10 minutes.
Step 3: To strengthen the hair and repair broken bonds apply the 5-Weeks Enriching Hair Treatment. Process for 15 minutes.
THE HAIR IS NOW READY TO BE COLOURED.
Step 1: Start the colour process by lifting the natural level to an RPC 10. Start in the nape area and work your way towards the crown area. Apply the lightener in horizontal sections and double up the foils due to the curl pattern. Work section by section, doubling the foils to create a more pronounced highlighted effect. Apply the lightener on every other section. It is important to leave enough hair on top to cover and blend the lighter sections.
Step 2: When the desired lift RPC 10 is achieved, rinse and shampoo with the Couleurs Couture Shampoo, followed by the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment. The PH level of the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will close the cuticles, and the active ingredient, Succinic Acid, will repair the broken bonds. The 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will help with creating colour longevity of the following toner service.
Step 3: Continue the colour process by creating shadow roots colour using formula 1, and bring the colour down to create a shadow root effect.
Step 4: Start the foil application in the nape area and work toward the crown area until all the hairs are coloured with the different colour formulas.
foil 1; apply colour formula 1 on the root area and colour formula 2 on mid-lengths and ends.
foil 2 ; apply the next foil back to back with colour formula 1 on the root area and colour formula 3 on mid-lengths and ends.
Step 5: Continue working toward the crown area, alternating the different formulas until there is no more hair to be colour.
IMPORANT TIP: only apply colour formulas 2 & 3 on the previously lifted
Gabriel’s Cut
Step 1: Section the hair using a horseshoe section and create 2 areas as shown.
Step 2: Starting in area 1 – Take a vertical section above the ear. Graduate the hair to 90 degrees and cut using a point- cutting technique.
Step 3: Follow this section to the front of the head, maintaining the same angle and length. Each section should be pulled out straight from the head with no over-direction.
Step 4: After completing the front section, return to the section above the ear and continue working toward the back of the head, following into the nape and crossover the middle. This will help with your cross-check and removes unwanted corners.
Step 5: Mirror the same cutting line and guide on the opposite side, maintaining the same tension, length and graduation.
Step 6: Release area 2, and section the hair into a diamond shape pattern along the perimeter of the head. Starting on the crown area and create a disconected haircut.
Step 7: Start the section on the highest point. The curl pattern will guide the first section and will be used as your guideline.
Step 8: Work around the head by subdividing each section into smaller diamond-shaped sections and create a geodesic dome pattern. Follow the natural curl pattern for each diamond shape section. The individual subsections can differ in size and width due to the hair’s natural curl pattern.
Step 9: Continue working around the head by following the geodesic dome diamond pattern and cutting each curl individually. The curls should flow naturally around the head. Avoid any unnecessary tension or manipulation of the curls.
Step 10: When all sections are cut to the desired length, bend the head forward and loosen the curls. This will free any irregularities from the hair. Cut any unwanted irregularities to the desired shape and length.
Step 11: Refine and soften the shape, go through each haircut section using deep and shallow point-cutting techniques, remove any excess weight, and give the haircut extra dimension.
Colour Formula For Gabriel
Couleurs Couture Colour formulas
Formula 1 Balayage: Freehand Clay Lightener 20 vol
Formula 2 Toner: 1/3 10.12 1/3 9.02 1/3 0.21 +6.5 vol
Gabriel’s Colour
Step 1: Start the colour process by sectioning a geodesic dome pattern in the nape area and letting the curl pattern guide the sections. Lift the natural hair colour to an RPC 9 using a balayage painting technique, ensuring all sides of the hair are saturated with lightener formula 1.
Step 2: Continue working towards the crown area using a geodesic dome pattern that is guided by the curl pattern. The sections should be big and irregular. .
Step 3: The top section should follow a left-to-right pattern again, allowing the natural curl pattern to dictate the sections.
Step 4: When the desired lift RPC 9 is achieved, rinse and shampoo with the Couleurs Couture Shampoo, followed by the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment. The PH level of the 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will close the cuticles, and the active ingredient, Succinic Acid, will repair the broken bonds. The 5-week Enriching Hair Treatment will help create colour longevity for the following toner service.
Step 5: Dry the hair completely before applying the toner service formula 2 (glaze). The toner is only applied on the previously lifted hair to control the unwanted warm tone.
Comments are closed.