Consumers are demanding greener, plant-based hair colour, and industry leaders have responded with an impressive array of new options.
Check out no-ammonia colour
In the last few years, groundbreaking R&D has allowed manufacturers to fine-tune hair colour for superior results and a better user experience, thanks to ammonia-free formulas. It’s a welcome relief for both colourists and clients, who will no longer have to endure the fumes. What’s more, ammonia-free colour is an alternative that preserves the integrity of the hair, while providing great shine and conditioning. The ammonia-free formulas, which were originally developed for demi- and semi-permanent hair colour (such as PM Shines from Paul Mitchell, Colour Touch by Wella and Cellophanes by Sebastian Professional), are now also available for permanent colours and high-lift blondes. Coming on the heels of ammonia-free formulas are oil-based delivery systems that maximize the effectiveness of the permanent hair-colour process, while providing twice as much lipid protection to the hair—these include Inoa from L’Oréal Professionnel and KOKO from Montreal-based Oligo Professionnel. Redken’s new Chromatics line, launching in April across Canada, also uses an oil-based system (read more on p. 27).
The “Free-From” Doctrine
Even though it is presently impossible to create hair-colour which is 100 per cent botanical, the industry is making strong efforts to provide consumers with rich, beautiful, shiny colour, while moving away from artificial fragrances, silicones, paraffin/mineral oils and parabens.
For example, the Essensity line from Schwarzkopf Professional promises to replace synthetic ingredients, whenever possible, without compromising on performance. Its formulas are predominantly biodegradable, and raw materials are synthesized from plant-based extracts using renewable sources.
This spring, Aveda is relaunching its Full Spectrum Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color line. “It’s hair colour with an environmental conscience,” says Ian Michael Black, Aveda Color director for North America. “The 96 per cent naturally derived formula, environmental packaging and 100 per cent wind power manufacturing make it the ideal product for guests looking for a hair colour service that is kind to their hair and the earth.”
For clients who wish to go one step closer to becoming better eco citizens, Organic Color Systems is a new US-based professional line. It uses a coconut by-product, which is a naturally derived swelling agent, suspended in soy oil. When colour is applied to hair and activated under heat, the soy oil naturally softens and moisturizes the cuticle as the coconut-derived swelling agent gently expands and opens the cuticle. As the heat source is removed, the swelling subsides, and the undamaged cuticle naturally closes back down, thereby sealing the new pigment into the hair. Organic Color Systems is also certified organic, vegan and cruelty-free by PETA.
Green Colour Quick Tips
-Re-market your colour bar by also offering eco solutions, and gain new clients who insist on ‘as natural as possible’ colour services.
-Plant-based dyes and extracts penetrate deeply and gently into the hair.
-Deposit-only colour (without ammonia) can deepen existing hair colour and be used to create natural highlights.
–Look for colour products without: Ammonia, Odour, Silicones, Paraffin/Mineral oils, Parabens, Formaledhyde derivates, Alcohol, Artificial colourants