A French twist can be sleek and classic or modern and textured, depending on how it is styled. Renowned hairstylist and educator Vivienne Mackinder shows how to make this timeless updo feel fresh and fashion-forward. A strong foundation is essential, starting with the right product and a directional set. Too much product can make the hair stiff and too little can cause the twist to collapse. Backcombing builds a compact, strong base while sculpting and pinning refine the shape, and sewing techniques can loosen or deconstruct sections for a relaxed, modern finish. Mackinder also recommends designing from the guest’s perspective and keeping the classic triangle silhouette in mind, then experimenting with shape and texture to create a twist that feels both timeless and contemporary.
A modern French twist begins with careful preparation and technical precision. Testing a small section ensures the product supports the set without weighing the hair down, and aligning the set with the intended silhouette adds volume, texture and control. The style’s structure relies on backcombing, particularly stacking and packing, to create a strong, balanced base. Sculpting and pinning refine the shape and secure the twist, while modern sewing techniques allow stylists to loosen or deconstruct sections for a fashion-forward finish.
How To: Create a Modern French Twist
Step one: Prep hair with a thermal setting spray and blast dry.
Step two: Use a large curling iron to set the pattern from crown to nape, clipping each curl for a strong “cold set.”
Step three: Gently loosen the set by running fingers through the hair.
Step four: Tease the crown using “stack & pack” backcombing to build root strength.
Step five: Mesh (a soft, flat backcombing technique), lightly mist with hairspray and brush hair into a loose crown ponytail.
Step six: With elastic thread and a plastic needle, sew around the head in an up-and-down motion.
Step seven: Create soft “valleys and peaks” for a relaxed, undone finish and lock in place with a light hairspray.
Vivienne Mackinder emphasizes designing with intention and checking the shape from all angles. Stylists should consider the guest’s perspective and maintain the classic triangle silhouette for balance. Once the fundamentals are mastered, creativity and experimentation with texture and form elevate the French twist from timeless to modern.
Credits: Hair/Vivienne Mackinder; Photographer/Roberto Ligresti; Make Up/David Maderich.
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